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Understanding and Working 'The Chase'
The sport of Big Air is growing by leaps and bounds. It’s getting more media attention and dogs are jumping farther and farther every day. The sport is also bringing out more and more new handlers and dogs. As SportMutt continues to travel the country observing and helping people get involved, we’ve noticed handlers using a technique that is commonly described as “what top handlers do.” Very often we hear “I see the big jumpers use it, so I figured it must be the technique to use.” This technique is commonly known in the industry as ”The Chase.”

First of all, let’s get a good understanding of what this technique is and why it is so common among the top handlers. There are three aspects to a successful Big Air jump: Speed, Lift, and the Ability to Hit the End of the Dock. ”The Chase” is a technique that helps ensure the dog gets that ever elusive Lift. The idea is to set the dog at the start point, the handler stands at the jump point, the handler releases the dog and times the throw so the dog will Chase the object at the moment the dog jumps. The purpose is for the dog to jump up and out after the object, thus getting the Lift. The motivation for the dog is to try and catch the object. It’s that simple.

Next, we need to look at why this technique is so commonly misunderstood and misused. Although “The Chase” is a great technique for obtaining the Lift, it can be a detriment to the dog’s Speed--the other important aspect to a successful Big Air jump. There are many reasons for this loss of speed. The most common reason is the dog simply not knowing what its objective is and slowing down to watch the handler and the object in the handler’s hand.

”The Chase” is a technique that needs to be trained and trained properly. The idea is to motivate the dog to go after the object in the air attempting to catch it while running at maximum speed. The dog needs to understand the technique and then be trained to utilize it to its fullest potential. In the dog world, a typical retrieve is based on the object lying either on the ground or in the water. Now, there may be variations of this, like the dog running after the object while the object is still moving, but the object is on the ground or in the water when the dog gets to the object. “The Chase” introduces an entirely new concept of retrieving.

Next, we’ll discuss a training method for ”The Chase” that has been very successful for us at SportMutt. Speed is always top priority with us--work toward maximum speed and obtain as much Lift as possible while maintaining that speed. Speed will only happen if the dog is confident and focused. It is obvious to us that the simpler the routine on the dock, the more focused and confident the dog will be. “The Chase” technique is far from simple, especially for new handlers. It’s an entirely different game for the dog. If the handler is standing at the end of the dock while the dog runs toward the handler, the dog not only has to focus on running, hitting the end of the dock, and jumping, it needs to focus on the handler and understand why the handler is holding the object in hand. Then the handler tosses the object and the dog wonders where the object went. To simplify “The Chase,” ensure its success, and make it routine for the dog--it has to be trained in progression.

SportMutt starts on dry land. This is where we build the routine and with the routine comes the confidence. Measure out a 40 foot run to simulate the dock. Start working retrieves where the dog is sitting at the 40 foot mark and the handler is standing at the other end. This is the initial phase of “The Chase.” The key is to toss the object and at the same time release the dog. Do not hold the object as the dog approaches. This is the beginning phase of progression and the dog must learn to drive hard in this routine. This will help to increase Speed. Once the handler is confident the dog is running hard using this routine, the handler can then bring it to the dock. Go through the same routine exactly as performed on dry land. Remember, the key is NOT to hold the object as they approach. The idea is to get the dog comfortable and confident with the routine. Get the dog to understand that, YES, the object will be tossed.

From there, we cross train this routine on Dry Land and the dock. With this progression, the dog learns that the object is getting tossed out into the water and the dog learns to run hard after it and increases confidence on the dock. Next, we move back to dry land and begin to hold the object a bit longer. Start working retrieves where the dog is sitting at the 40 foot mark and the handler is standing at the other end. Only this time hold the object for a stride. The idea here is to begin allowing the dog to get closer before making the toss. This is the middle phase of progression and the dog must learn to drive hard while keeping an eye on the object. From there, we cross train this routine with the dock. Next we begin to work the catch. “The Chase” will be ineffective if the dog doesn’t think it can catch the object. We start again at dry land for this. We start out very close. Set up the dog about a foot away and simply toss the object out about a foot and at the dog’s eye level. The idea here is to get the dog to lunge out after the object catching it in its mouth. One very important thing to keep in mind while working on Dry Land--never throw an object higher than the dog’s eyes. Injury can occur if the dog jumps too high trying to catch the object.

From there it’s a progression game again. Start lining the dog up a few feet back and go from there. Then take it back to the dock to reinforce the dryland training and the routine for the dog.

If “The Chase” is trained in this fashion, the dog’s confidence will improve and its understanding of your expectations on the dock will improve and soon it will all come together for even bigger Big Air jumps.

Good Luck and Keep it Fun!


Big Air Obedience

Simple dog obedience in the sport of Big Air is an often over-looked skill and training technique. Many dogs are good with their basic obedience skills “at home,” but a new environment is really where the dog proves if the obedience skills are solid or need work. It is fairly easy for a dog to do well with its basic commands in an environment that is predictable and the dog is completely acclimated to. When a dog is in a new environment the level of possible distractions increase greatly. A dog needs to be able to focus on the handler and block these distractions out. When a dog can focus directly on its handler, it will become much easier for the dog to perform its basic commands successfully.

Crucial obedience commands in the sport is the “sit” and the “stay” command. A great way to prepare for ensuring a dog will obey these basic commands in a Big Air environment is to first practice these commands in other distracting locations.

First, practice the “sit” and “stay” commands at home in the dog’s natural environment—both inside and outside the home. Once the dog has proven success with this, it is time to move the training to the next level. Be creative taking the dog to a new environment that is sure to provide plenty of distractions for the dog. Practice these two commands with the dog until there is success. Depending on the dog—this can take a few days to a few months to reach that level of success. Again, once a level of success has been achieved look for another environment to practice these commands in.

When finding a new environment in which to practice the commands, try not to overwhelm the dog with too many environments at once. Pick one or two environments to really practice these skills. Make sure the dog has solid success confirming the commands before adding new environments for training. Great environments to choose would be places, like a local dog park, that will naturally create a lot of distractions for a dog. The possibility of what a dog will see, hear, and smell at a dog park makes it an ideal place as a distracting environment. Make sure to go back to the first environments and “confirm” the dog’s successes as continuing to progress forward with new locations in which to confirm the commands. Also, be willing and open at Big Air events to see them as an opportunity for learning and training and not just as a competitive environment in which to jump. With success in many different kinds of distracting environments—it should become easier for the dog to acclimate faster to a new environment and be able to focus better on the handler and on what the handler is asking the dog to perform.
Good luck with plan!



Preparing for Game Day!


Finally the day has come. You’ve been working so hard and waiting ever so patiently. Sleepless nights full of anticipation. Not knowing what to expect yet willing to take on the challenge of your first DockDogs event.

You arrive at the venue. The scene is everything you imagined. Your anxiety quickly turns in to impatience. You can’t wait to get up on the dock and start jumping. The event coordinator announces the dock won’t be open for a few hours. You decide this would be a great opportunity to take to a field or a pond and throw the object for a while. You know, keep your dog excited and ready to tackle the dock. Finally after you’ve thrown the object at the pond, walked your dog around the venue for as while, gotten your dog to jump up after the object for while, the event coordinator opens the dock.

A line quickly forms in front of the dock. You get in line and hold your dog on lead trying to keep the excitement level up. Finally, finally, it’s your turn. Everything works to perfection. After a few jumps your dog is looking pretty good. You tell yourself “We can do this”, “We fit right in”. So, you take a few more. The distances are improving. Pretty soon you start thinking, “Hey, we have a shot at this, let’s try a few more”.

Competition begins. Your dog stumbles but still has a pretty good jump. The next jump your dog has a really good jump but leaves a few feet early.  You’re still very excited and you’ve made it to the finals on Sunday. 

That night you notice your dog is pretty tired. You know you have a big day on Sunday so you let your dog rest. The next day you notice your dog doesn’t quite have the spunk of yesterday but you tell yourself “once we get going, the spunk will come back”. That day you notice the jumps are not as long as the previous days jumps. You notice your dogs simply does not have the energy of the previous day.

This is a common scenario with our new competitors.  Your dog is whooped.  This is a sport that requires optimum energy that must be maintained for a certain period of time. Your dog begins to burn that invaluable energy the moment you arrive at the venue. Then, to take your dog out to a pond, or jump up after the object, well, that would be like Michael Jordan doing a 1000 deep knee bends right before a slam dunk contest.

The key to a successful competition is proper preparation. This preparation starts well before you arrive at the event and follows completely through the entire event.

Training should consist of Technique, Strength, and Condition. I’m not going to take this time to discuss scheduling in detail but I will say this, a good big air training schedule should include these entities and should also include lots of rest.  The schedule should be constructed so that you have a minimum of 3 days rest prior to competition.

The following is a general but effective way to prep for an event whether you’re a first timer or an experienced GOG competitor. Tucker has been to many competitions and we always follow this routine:

1)   Breakfast. Every dog’s eating schedule will be different, but you’ll want to make sure your dog has been fed a good 3 – 4 hours prior to a competition.

2)   Potty Break. Make sure you give your dog plenty of time to relieve themselves. I usually take Tucker for a small walk an hour after breakfast. It loosens him up in more ways that one, if you know what I mean.

3)   Set up your home. When you arrive at the event you’ll want to find an area where you can get away from the competition. This allows your dog to conserve energy and rest until it’s time. I understand the each venue is different where some have more room than others. A kennel is a great way to keep your dog rested.

4)   Acclimate to your surroundings.  Once you set up home you’ll want to acclimate to the surroundings. Every venue is different and will introduce new sights and smells to your dog. Walk around the venue. Let your dog look at and smell everything in sight. Dogs are naturally curious creatures and will be distracted by these new sights and smells.

5)   Register. When it comes time to register, take your dog back to your home area. It is always a good idea to have a support person with you at an event. This person can stay with your dog while you register. I understand that not everyone can have a support person. In this case you would have to bring your dog along to registration. NEVER leave your dog unattended.

6)   Acclimate to the Dock.  When the dock opens you’ll want to take this opportunity to acclimate to the dock. Every dog should be acclimated to the dock. The best competitors in the world acclimate and will usually take the opportunity to take a practice run.

7)   Practice. Usually your practice jumps will take place the same time you are acclimating to the dock. Keep in mind your dog has never been off this dock before. The most effective way to practice is this: on your first jump start your dog no further than half way back from the jump point. Experienced dogs should start half way back. New dogs should start about 10 feet back. This is a quick way to ensure confidence on that particular dock. The second jump relies on the first jump. If your dog had a successful first jump, you can start at your desired start point. If you dog did not have a successful first jump, move the dog up a bit. Keep doing this until you’ve had a successful jump, then move your dog to your desired start point. Once you’ve taken 1 or 2 jumps from your desired start point you are done. Competition will be your next jump.

8)   Wait for Competition. You are now ready to compete. Take your dog back your home area and wait for competition to begin. Do NOT take your dog to the Judges briefing if you don’t have to.

That’s it. The most successful dogs in Big Air follow this routine to some extent. The idea is not to over work your dog. The results will reflect that and you will leave the competition knowing your dog could have done much better.





Dock Jumping 101: The first Event...
Written by, Ty LeGarde of sportmutt

Something I see on a fairly regular basis at events—this is especially true at indoor events—is the confident new-comer who has not yet competed but will say, “Oh my dog will be fine. She jumps all day at our cabin.”
     A response to this is hard to say at an event especially when dealing with not only this new-comer, but dozens of others. Here is a quick tip for handlers (new-comers  and old-timers): You are no longer at your cabin.
    I am positive that a lot of the dogs that never make it off a dock at a competition are very proficient jumpers. I can see it in a dog’s drive. I can see it in a dog’s conditioning. I can see it when the dogs whine, bark, jump, twist, and spin at the end of the dock looking at the toy their handlers have thrown thirty-five feet out across the pool. But the dogs still will not jump. Why? There are a few reasons for this.

Many times when I see this happen, it is a “dry-dog” at the end of the dock. Think about this. The first time Scruffy jumped at the cabin, did he know there was water at the end of his jump? Probably. Through proper introduction to the water, or from his own playing around, Scruffy was fairly confident there was water at the end of the dock for his jump.
    At most indoor events, the scaffolding dock is at least eight feet above the ground. The lighting is artificial. There are bleachers—that are usually packed—on at least two sides of the pool and sometimes on three sides. There are kids who line the edge of the pool hoping to get wet. There is music playing, there are judges, and there are announcers keeping the crowd entertained and informed. This is about as different of an environment as one could ask for from the cabin. A key for success is proper introduction to the venue. I will try and give some observations that have been successful for handlers who are attending their first event and getting their dogs to jump. Non-jumpers that finally jump are big crowd pleaser. No matter what, I am happy to see any and all handlers get out to events. But for those who want to see their dogs succeed on the dock—the following is for you. Hey, it is your twenty bucks—might as well take home a ribbon. I hope these tips help.

                1.Get the dog wet. Let the dog climb up the ramp to the edge of the pool. Splash a little water in front of it. Put the throw object (toy, DFT, etc.) right outside the edge of the dog’s reach. Encourage the dog to walk down the ramp to get the toy. When the dog does this successfully—PRAISE PARTY, BABY! If you are not a little embarrassed by your antics when your dog does something well—you are not praising the dog enough.
Handlers can also expand on this technique by throwing the toy a little farther into the pool. A quick dip in the pool will let the dogs know there is water in this big, blue thing they have never seen before. They know water. They do not know a gigantic blue wall that towers over them.

                2. You are not trying out for the New York Yankees. I see it all the time. A new dog standing on the dock for the first time. The handler does everything right. The handler takes the dog on lead to the end of the dock and then hurls the toy thirty-five feet out into the pool. Then the handler takes the dog an additional forty feet away in the opposite direction, has the dog sit, releases the dog, and when the dog does not jump the handler is perplexed.

                Here we go. The throw was way, way, way out there. The toy is thirty-five feet away from the end of the dock and then the dog is an additional forty feet back from this point: this a total of seventy-five feet. Imagine you are the dog. Dogs can only see certain colors. A small bumper or DFT floating in the water is not the first thing in the field of vision. As a dog, you are aware of all the people in the background, you are on unfamiliar ground, and a run of forty feet ahead of you before even thinking about finding the location of the toy. At that distance, as a new dog—I would not jump for anything less than the California Condor DFT—and I do not think Tom Dokken has make this one yet.

                Shorten the throw. Toss the object out there around six to seven feet from the end of the dock. For the first time jump do not worry about the dog’s jump distance. You cannot achieve world class jumps without building a foundation of confidence. Let the dog jump from the edge of the dock. If the dog goes without hesitation—perfect! You are on your way to having a “bone” a fide Big Air dog. However, if the dog hesitates a little bit—repeat this process. You will notice the word confidence has snuck into this article a couple times. This is what Big Air and success is all about. Building the dog’s confidence.

A great example of this happened at a Redmond, Oregon event. This was an indoor event with all of the elements I described earlier. A young man named Marco Hendricks and his great dog, Lady, were having trouble. He knew she could jump, but she was not jumping at the venue. Marco approached Will Gutman and his dad Bill for some advice. Marco used the methods I just explained—Lady started out small—around nine feet. By the end of the event, Lady had jumped over sixteen feet. Two weeks later, Lady gained another foot and dropped a 17.03. This is a dog that will add a foot to her distance each and every wave because of her growing confidence. Lady’s success was directly because of some good advice--and a handler who followed it. Watch out for these guys!

Please do not get me wrong. I am not writing this because I think I know more about your dog, dog training, and dock jumping than you do. I am writing this because of what I have observed, tried and seen that works. There are dogs that will jump anywhere, anytime—but if that is not your dog—try these two simple techniques. See what happens.



With Height comes Distance

I’m sure everyone can relate to the following scenario. You’re standing in your yard watering some bushes and grassy areas. Your garden hose is at its arms length, the nozzle is completely squeezed projecting the water with a strong stream,  and your un-able to reach some of those far away bushes and dry grassy areas. What do you do? You slowly start pointing the nozzle of the hose up a little higher. You’re starting to reach those areas but your still not quite getting there. So, you aim a little higher. This goes on for a few short seconds until you realize you’ve pointed the nozzle just a little too high and your start hitting the areas you hit when the nozzle what pointed lower. The end of your stream of water starts coming back if you point the nozzle too high. You come to realize there is an optimum angle to hold the nozzle to get the farthest distance with the stream.

Well this same scenario applies to a Big Air Dog. There is an optimal angle of lift for the amount of speed the Dog is carrying down the dock to obtain maximum distance. The reason for this is due to gravity. Unfortunately as soon as the dog obtains lift, gravity immediately starts working against him pulling him down to the water. Now if your dog could some how continue carrying speed after the jump, DockDogs would have to come up with a different measuring system because the distance would be un-measurable. But as we all know the speed diminishes and gravity gets its way.

Instead of trying to determine what that optimum angle is I’m going to focus on how to achieve maximum distance by adjusting the dog’s angle of lift keeping the garden hose scenario in mind. First, your dog must achieve maximum speed at the jump point on the dock. Refer to my previous article “Dock Speed” for more information.

Some of you might say: “ My dog gets plenty of height, he’s just not getting the speed”, or vise versa “He’s got the speed, he’s just not jumping up”.  It’s the perfect combination of both that is something you’ll work on through out your dogs entire career.

To obtain the height you must instantiate vertical muscle memory in your dogs rear legs.  It will take a certain amount of time to accomplish this through a scheduled training program that requires practice and repetition for a certain period of time.  The program should include dry land work, shore work, and dock work. If you follow this schedule not only will the height improve, you will also build confidence, another critical aspect of a successful Big Air Dog.

Start on dry land. Introduce your dog to jumping over hurdles. Agility hurdles are great for this. Your goal is to attain a good amount of speed while jumping over two or three hurdles in a row. Remember to start low and close and finish long and high.

Use a throwing technique that closely resembles the technique you’ll be using on the dock. Don’t forget to PRAISE.

Move to shore work. Align the hurdles so the dog runs towards the water ultimately landing in the water after jumping over the last hurdle. Start with one hurdle, low and close and finish with more hurdles high and long.
  
Move to the dock. Now instead of using agility hurdles use SportMutt’s Vertical Hurdle. Attaching the Vertical Hurdle to the dock and extending it out allows your dog to execute the same motion you’ve been training on dry land and shore. If you’ve worked the agility hurdles correctly you will have determined an accurate distance between your dogs jump point and the hurdle. Your goal is to achieve the same distance between the end of the dock and the hurdle as you had with the agility hurdles. You may have to start close and low and finish long and high.

Remember to praise often. Remember to always train in short and achievable sessions. Always end on a positive note leaving your dog wanting more. If your dog shows any signs of tiredness, weakness, or boredom, you’re done for that session.

Remember to Keep It Fun




Hunt, Field & Retriever Test Training VS Dock Jumping Training
Mark J Haynes of Sportmutt.com     

I have competed and watched many of the DockDog events and there is one thing I have noticed.  The handlers that train their dogs in the Hunt test & field trials seem to have some trouble.  Not all of them, but a large majority of them do. There are a couple of reasons this may happen.

Hunt test and field trials takes a lot of discipline and gives your dog a “job” to do.  The dog must be under total control at all times, no barking, jumping, and answer to whistle commands. You put on your vest, gloves, and hat, and grab your bird dummies and take to the field to train. As soon as you do this, your dog is fully aware of what you are about to do, and starts to ready themselves to go to work.

This is the complete opposite of what you want to see in a dog at a Big Air event.  You want your dog to get excited, loud and jumping around so they can throw all that energy into that big leap. Jumping your dog in Dockdog events should not be a controlled “job” for your dog but more of a fun filled reward for them. This should be playtime, at home and at an event. It should never be a job for your dog, always make it fun for you and them.

Here are a few suggestions that might help you in making that transition from field dog to a Dockdog jumping competitor.

1. Never wear the same clothing for a jump event that you wear for field tests or practice. I really believe your dog knows the cloths and will go into their controlled JOB mode.
    

1. Leave the whistle at home. Again don’t confuse your dog. This is to be a fun activity for you and your dog, not work.  Let them get a little out of control by barking jumping and getting excited. I am sure that your well-trained field dog can and will answer to your verbal commands.
    
   

1. Never use the same throw dummy that you use in the field for a dock-jumping event. You will be amazed at the different reaction you will get from your dog if you trade in your field throw for a different colored “play” bumper. 
    
   

1. Try to stay away from the “chase” technique. Your dog already knows how to get that big pop going into the water from your field training, capitalize on that training and roll it over in to big air. Throw your dummy into the water and let them charge after it like you have taught them. This web site can show you ways to get the height you’ll need.
   

Try these small suggestions and see if they help you in making that transition over from a Field dog to a big air dog. It could make the difference between a novice jumping dog and a senior or master class dog. But, as always, the most important thing to remember is :

JUMP BIG & KEEP IT FUN.